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The X-T2 still has the same outstanding color response that the X-Series has become known for, with rich color and fantastic tonal response. Fuji has allowed you to tweak the tonal curve a bit more, however, offering greater latitude in adjustment in camera to push and pull highlights and shadows to create the contrast curve best desired for the final image. In any case, the range of the sensor is excellent, and it can capture the complete range of tones in the vast majority of shooting situations. The dynamic range of the sensor is largely in line with the earlier X-Trans sensor, though with some slight improvement. While there is nothing new to report with regards to the X-T2, it still holds up today as an excellent APS-C sensor that gives image quality close to many Full-Frame sensors. This is a 24 megapixel APS-C sensor that proved to have excellent dynamic range and detail, with good noise control for an APS-C sensor. The X-T2 features the same X-Trans III CMOS Sensor that first debuted with the X-Pro2. I really hope Fuji stops using x-trans and starts using bayer instead.Due to the identical sensor and image quality, portions of this section were duplicated from the X-Pro 2 review. It has slightly better dynamic range and less noise. It has none of the artifacts and color issues. Compare any x-trans to my old Nikon D610 and the D610 wins. But some bayer sensors don’t preform as well as other bayer sensor do. Just wanted to say, yes bayer is better than x-trans.
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TLDR: I think the X-A7 looks sharper because the artifacts on the x-trans sensor kinda smears out the details and tiny color details. Never pixel peep and you’ll be fine with any of them. Some of them just deals with details differently, I guess.
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Unless you don’t plan on doing any long exposure or high iso photography, that is.Īll of these cameras can give you good pictures though, if you know how to use them. If I’m correct (might not be ofc) then I don’t think I would recommend an X-A7. I know you’re not talking about any of the cameras I am talking about, but im making assumptions about how the X-A7 preforms based on the fact that it has a similar sensor to the X-T200 and they came out around the same time.
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And the result is that the image is full of hot pixels that needs to be removed in post, which takes a long time. Usually when that setting is turned on, the camera does some processing, of come kind, after you take the shot. I’ve noticed with both of them that if you do long exposures they won’t do the “long exposure noise reduction” thing. (All cameras are very noisy if you do that though). The on X-T100 the shadows retains their colors. At iso 3200, if you boost the shadows a little, they take on a green tint that is very ugly.
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The camera body was an upgrade from the X-T100, but the sensor preformed worse at high iso. I’ve chosen to continue using my x-trans cameras despite the slightly worse IQ because the way the cameras handles makes up for it.Īlso, I have had an X-T200 which I assume (might be wrong) has the same sensor as the X-A7, and I did not like it too much.
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They are not really deal breakers for me at least. But it gives an extra sense of sharpness, imo.īut all that said, the artifacts are not THAT bad. It’s hard to describe it without a direct comparison. I know that sounds weird, but when I compared my X-T2 to my X-T100, everything just seemed to look right on the X-T100 shots. To me, the x-trans artifacts (often called worms or wormy artifacts) look like the pixels are not in their proper place. Pixels looks smeared out and the coolers can look desaturated, like some small details have taken on the colors of their surroundings. X-Trans has a tendency to not render tiny details very well. I’m just some idiot with cameras and time to pixel peep :P